Flat Patternmaking Fundamentals: The Moulage & Bodice Sloper Making a moulage that fits like a glove and using it to draft a bodice sloper are essential techniques for any patternmaker, and now you can learn these skills without attending fashion design school. Join me, Suzy Furrer, for my online class, Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper, and create custom-fit bodice slopers from which you can design a wardrobe for yourself or customers. In this class, the second installment of my Patternmaking Basics series, you'll continue along the path to patternmaking like a pro. Begin by making a moulage—a tight-fitting fabric blueprint of the body drafted from the low hip to the shoulders. Once you've made the moulage, you'll create a bodice sloper by adding ease to the neck, shoulders and down the sides. Bodice slopers are used in the fashion industry as the basic shape around which blouses, dresses, jackets and coats are designed. | | There are over a dozen body measurement segments you'll need to record to produce an accurate moulage, so that's where we'll start. I'll cover how to get these measurements both on a person and a dressform, as well as how to use your class materials to easily calculate the measurements for your moulage.
We'll move on to setting up the foundation outline for your moulage, and drafting your front and back moulage patterns complete with all the markings needed to assemble them. You'll put the patterns on muslin, add seam allowances and cut them out. Once your moulage pieces are ready, we'll discuss order of construction so you can begin sewing it. | | After your moulage is assembled, I'll help you perform a thorough fit check and transfer any adjustments to your original moulage pattern. Then, I'll show you how to add wearing ease so you can draft a sloper based on your moulage pattern. You'll learn to true up your sloper, add markings and notches and transfer it to tag for a design-ready bodice sloper you can use over and over again. Sign up for Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper, and we'll also discuss design options that can be created from your sloper, and how to change this woven sloper into a knit sloper. I've been working in the apparel industry since the mid-80's. I started as a self-taught knitwear designer. As I began to get recognized as a designer I decided to return to school to learn patternmaking. | | I studied with Simmon Sethna in San Francisco, who originally trained in Paris, where she was certified in haute couture. I studied French patternmaking for 3 to 5 hours daily for 2 years.
In 1996, I started Apparel Arts, a fashion design school in San Francisco. Currently we have a full 24-month program where we teach not only flat patternmaking, but draping, construction, textiles, illustration, tailoring, sewing with knits, manufacturing practices and design principles. At Apparel Arts, we use my textbook, Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women's Clothing, which is also used in other fashion design schools on the west coast.
Develop the fashion design foundation from which your custom patternmaking skills will grow. Suzy Furrer | Craftsy Instructor |
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